What is a rating?
A single skill number that moves with your results. Each game has its own scale, shaped like a rating system you may already know: 1.0–16.5 for tennis (UTR-shaped), 2.0–8.0 for pickleball (DUPR-shaped), 100–3000 for table tennis (USATT-shaped), 100–3000 for chess (Elo-shaped). So if you already know you're a UTR 6, you'll recognise where you land in tennis. Win and it climbs; lose and it dips.
Underneath it's a chess-style Elo, which is why it moves the way it does: the size of every change depends on who you played, not just whether you won. You'll see those raw points in a few places (the “+16 pts” beside a result, for instance) — that's the same rating, just in the finer-grained units it's calculated in.
Already rated elsewhere? Tell us your NTRP, UTR, DUPR, USATT, or USCF/FIDE rating when you add a player and we'll start you near that level instead of from scratch — so your first matches are competitive rather than blowouts. Otherwise a handful of rated matches is usually enough to settle near your true rating; until then it's marked Provisional.
How does it change?
Your rating moves when the winner reports the score of a rated match — the opponent's confirm step is a safety net, and if a dispute is upheld the rating change is reversed. The size of the move depends on the result and on the gap between the two ratings:
- Beat someone higher-rated → bigger jump up.
- Beat someone roughly your rating → small jump up.
- Lose to someone lower-rated → bigger drop.
- Lose close to someone higher → barely any change.
- Winning decisively counts a little more than squeaking through — the score margin feeds in set by set.
- In chess, a draw counts as half a win for each side — it nudges you toward your opponent's rating.
- A new or long-dormant rating moves faster, so it finds its level quickly instead of grinding there over ten matches.
Only rated matches move ratings — a casual (unrated) match is recorded in your history but never touches your number. Doubles results are scored to the partnership: the team's result moves both partners together. See Matches & scoring for how reporting and confirming works.
Your class: A–F
Because the raw number only makes sense in context, we translate it into a class from A (the top band) down to F. It's a percentile, computed within each zone and within your own competition category — players of your gender and age group. A junior girl is never ranked into a class against adult men.
- A — top of the zone's category.
- B / C — strong, competitive regulars.
- D / E / F — developing and newer players.
The exact cut-offs are configurable (by default the top 5% of a category is A, the next 5% B, and so on), and a letter only appears once a zone has enough rated players in your category — around ten. Until then you'll see just the raw rating.
Ratings & classes are per zone
We rate and rank you per zone — your home ZIP, the cities you play in, the counties you've opted into. Each zone has its own ladder and its own A–F cut-offs, so a strong league player in a small town can be an A and #1 in their county while sitting at C and #28 in the state.
Heads-up: a zone needs at least a handful of active players for the ranking to be meaningful. If you're the only person playing in your zone, the dashboard suggests widening it or inviting a friend.
Ratings and tournament entry
Some tournaments set a minimum level for entry (Beginner → Advanced beginner → Intermediate → Advanced). Your level in a sport is the one you picked under “Sports I play” until you've played rated matches — after that your results decide, so winning a few close matches can open the next division to you. There are no upper caps: the floor keeps fields competitive, it never locks stronger players out of weaker events.
Don't overthink it. Play a few matches, log the scores, and the system puts you in the right place.
Still stuck?
If you can't find the answer here, we're happy to help directly.